POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 32 Fluid Ounces, Semi-gloss Black

My frame in my truck was beginning to show some surface rust. Living in the rust belt I wanted to get ahead of the issue. POR15 was easy to apply made the frame look almost brand new again. As far as longevity only time will tell. So far so good but only one month in. Also wear gloves and old clothes this stuff is impossible to get off skin and clothing.

I knew the truck I was buying had rust on the frame. For the most part it was surface rust, but some areas had scale that came off in chunks. I decided to address this one section at a time over weekends so that I could keep using the truck during the week. So far I have remediated about 1/2 of the frame under the truck bed. I jacked the truck up and put it on jack stands. I lowered and removed the spare tire and I had to disconnect some of the plastic ties that secure the wiring harness to the frame. Then I used a wire brush, a paint scraper and sand paper to knock off all the loose rust. In a few areas I used an electric grinder and a sandpaper wheel to grind out some deep rust. In no way did I try to bring it all down to shiny metal, just getting rid of anything that looked loose, flaky and unstable.Then I washed the frame sections with the POR 15 cleaner. I applied the cleaner with a spray bottle and used a brush to scrub it a bit before letting it sit for the required time and then washed it down with water. I then dried it down as best I could with a clean towel, and then applied the Metal Treatment according to the instructions, again using a spray bottle and rinsing it off with water.After letting it dry for a day I applied one coat of POR 15. You can remove the can lid by using the thickest screwdriver blade you have or can buy a thick bladed driver for this purpose. Don't use a thin blade as it will just bend up the lip of the lid. Also, hold the can firmly and push the blade firmly against the side of the lid before you pry up. Work slowly around the lid and it will eventually separate. Once the can is open, be careful. Yes, this stuff is thin. It drips and gets all over you. Wear gloves, old clothes, a hat, mask and goggles. Spread a tarp under the truck and try to cove any components you don't want to paint (like the exhaust system) with plastic drop clothes cut to size. You will be applying it to the frame above your head so there will definitely be drips. Use a good brush and don't over-load it. First apply the paint to the top of the frame members and let it run down sides, painting it out smooth as it runs down. Try to work away from your body. Sit on one side and reach across to the other so that you are not working directly over your own head. Look at the section you are painting from all angles. You'll be surprised how many places you miss if you don't take the time to look around from all sides. Once you have finished, let it dry for about five hours. The first coat will dry very dull. Then apply a second coat. It will go on much smoother, much quicker and much easier. It will dry to a semigloss finish.I will buy a second can of POR 15 to do the rest of the frame under the bed. I still have plenty of cleaner and metal treatment left to do the job. Don't rush it, don't get frustrated, plan to spend two days to do a 2-3 foot section of the frame. MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS SOLIDLY ON THE JACK STANDS and keep the jack in place as a safety. Good luck.

Very good product recommend

Please READ!!! Save yourself and UNDERSTAND!!! This product is AMAZING!!! First off painting anything is all about PREP work! Everything must sanded/scuffed, cleaned, degreased, washed off with water, dry, decent weather conditions if your outside, your work should be taped off, covered in plastic or newspaper and follow the directions on the cans!My experience with these products…ALL 5 star!!The cleaner/degreaser *****The cleaner isn’t some harsh chemicals that burns your hands! It doesn’t smell and works amazing! Get a spray bottle and light scrub brush and scrub your work area. Dilute it with water 4:1.The metal prep/rust inhibitor *****If your work piece has rust USE THIS! After sanding/cleaning the area and washing it off use this. It will take light rust (that maybe you couldn’t sand all of it away) and chemically breakdown the “rust” properties turning it back into its original metal state. Which then is a paintable clean surface. Listen Peoples, rust is like a cancer, ither cut it out, put in replacement metal or use this, and FOLLOW directions!!! It works!!! Read the DIRECTIONS!!The Por-15 paint*****The BEST PAINT!!!This paint is some serious stuff! It gets rock hard! KEEP THE CAN AND LID PERFECTLY CLEAN, the lid will seal itself shut if there’s ANY PAINT ON THE RIM!!! (That’s why they sell 6packs of small cans) and don’t paint outta the can, poor into something else. Stir the cans!!!! There’s 3/8inch chemicals at the bottom of the can of you don’t stir you’ll hit the bottom and be like”ohhhh what’s this”, oppps!!!! This paint will harden like steel it’s AMAZING STUFF!!! It’s like epoxy, but thinner.(the longer the can is exposed to the air/open the thicker it gets fast!!) When you use this paint you gotta be quick, in a rhythm and can’t stop. At this point everything should be ready for paint. If your using the topcoat paint as well, the topcoat goes on BEST RATE after this drys to “finger drag”. Meaning when you touch the painted surface it doesn’t stick to your finger, and you can drag your finger over it without removing any paint. Once at this point topcoat it RATE AWAY! Don’t wait because you’ll have to sand it, the topcoat adheres BEST when the por-15 paint is finger drag. The topcoat fills in all the imperfections the paint missed. BE heavy, don’t stretch these paints out, (small roller works the best) The topcoat smooths everything to a beautiful finish. THE PAINT AND TOPCOAT ARE NOT THE SAME!!!! They are totally different!!!!!! If you use the topcoat only that’s fine I guess but it’s no WAY near protected unless you use the Por-15 paint then topcoat. The paint hardens like steel, the topcoat does not harden the same way!!!! They are totally different!!! Yes it dries, but it’s just different. It says DTM on the can(directly to metal) and I’m sure you can only use the topcoat but if you want SERIOUS protection USE THE PAINT and TOPCOAT. If your only using one of them I would choose the paint over the topcoat.I restored a truck frame using these products. It’s very time consuming, and prep work!!! But WOW IT WORKED FLAWLESSLY AND WAS WORTH THE TIME!!! If you buy a can and paint over a completely rusted out item without prepping it, don’t expect a miracle. That paint hardens so hard the metal will probably dissolve and the POR paint will be holding it together it’s that strong lol. The people reading this will understand…Por-15 actually surprised me!!! I always usedRust oleum, which is good stuff but I’m a POR believer!!! There stuff is pro!!! I didn’t get a chance to use the primer, but again the key is after painting the rust protection paint, finger drag and topcoat heavy rate away and it’s smooth like butter…YOU DONT HAVE TO SPRAY IT, if you do my research says get POR15 solvent!!! CHEERS! good luck!!!

Great for brushing on the frame. I wouldn’t recommend spraying it.

As Described

Great stuff! Must use it all once opened. Prep is key!

Product performs great in rusted metal to stop the rust