NEEWERTT560 Flash Speedlite for Canon Sony Nikon Panasonic Olympus Pentax and Other DSLR Cameras, Digital Camera Speedlight with Standard Hot Shoe

FEATURES> Uses 4 AA batteries> "Mini-stand"---may be used as a stand, or as tripod adapter. However, if you want a short stand, I suggest Vivitar VIVMPT100BLU 6-Inch Table Tripod (Blue)> Standard sych socket, and standard hot shoe> Power input socket--I have not found a specific battery pack charger for this unit.>> It looks like the rechargeable battery pack NEEWER PB3000 3000mAh Speedlite External Portable Flash Battery Pack backup power source for CANON 430EX 540EX 550EX 580EX 580EX II or the less expensive 8 AA cell power pack NEEWER® External Portable BATTERY Pack Backup Power Source for Canon 600EX, 580EX II, 580EX, 550EX would work.> Velvet-like storage bag.PROS> Powerful> Versatile: head rotates up/down and sideways. Built-in option defuser.> 8 easily selectable power levels, equal to a range of 8 f-stops; from full power down to 1/128th power.> S1 or S2 selectable. Many modern digital cameras have a "preflash" before the main flash. S1 syncs with the first flash, S2 syncs with the second flash.CONS---general> Practically speaking, this is strictly a manual slave flash. That is, there is no TTL metering etc. In these days of digital photography, that isn't too much of a drawback, but it does mean that you have to guess at the settings. However, if you are consistent with your settings (ISO and F-stop) you'll be surprised at how quickly you are able to "guess" the correct power level (on the flash) the first time.> Large--7" x 2 3/4" X 2"--you need a big gadget bag to carry it around in with your camera.> Works fine in very heavy shade or a inside, but in sunlight or even in bright shade, the slave doesn't fire (presumably because it doesn't see the weak in-camera flash). Often one needs flash lighting to fill-in shallows in bright light. In shade one often needs flash lighting to improve saturation, to improve color balance, to show off texture, and to isolate the subject from the background. The solution is a sync cord, which I now use all the time NEEWER® TTL Off-camera Flash Hotshoe Connector Cord for Olympus Panasonic Camera Speedlite. Just set the flash on "M" using the mode button when using a sync cord.FOR MACROPHOTOGRAPHY> The TT560 is heavy---about 16 ounces with batteries. Much too heavy for my macro-light bracket Neewer® Macro Shooting Flexible Dual Arm Dual Hot Shoe Flash Bracket with A Mini 2D Level Gauge for All Camera Flash EXCEPT Sony, Minolta> A tiny, inexpensive, PLR Studio Series Pro Slave Flash Includes Mounting Bracket For The Panasonic Lumix Digital SLR Cameras works well for macro work. However, you have to change the distance, ISO, or F-stop to change the light level.> I find that the TT560 is by far the most convenient flash for macro work, because I can just set up my camera for highest quality (e.g., ISO 200, F16, etc.) and use the power levels of the flash to adjust the light level.> Using a sync cord (instead of the built-in flash to trigger the TT560 as a slave), also avoids the built-in flash from washing out detail in macro-work.RECOMMENDATION> If you have the luxury of working at your own pace, then the exactly predictable output of the TT560 is better than that of a (Nikon, Canon, Lumix, etc. branded) TTL version of the same flash unit at 10x or 15x the price, because sometimes the TTL circuitry works against you. But, if you must work fast, or only have one chance to catch a shot, then the TTL circuitry (of more expensive models) is worth the exorbitant price.> The TT560 flash unit has no metering circuits, and your camera will NOT adjust to the flash. So, you have to adjust your camera (mostly the aperture and ISO) and/or the power level of the flash to get properly exposed photos. Unfortunately, modern cameras resist such manual adjustment. Even if you set the shutter speed and aperture manually, your camera will probably pump-up the ISO indoors etc, defeating your efforts. So you also have to set the ISO manually.Details:> Your lens will probably be sharpest between f5.6 and f11. The larger the number, the wider the depth-of-field. Usually, you'll want a wide depth-of-field. So, set your camera to manual or aperture-preferred, and the aperture at f8. For macro work, you probably need the extra depth of field at F16.> IMPORTANT: Set the ISO manually at 200 in your camera.> Take a picture at full power. If the picture is too dark, you can increase the ISO up to ~800, if that isn't bright enough, then open your aperture to 5.6. Alternatively, (in manual mode) you can set the shutter to a slower speed (say, down to 1/30 sec) to use more of the ambient light.> If ISO 200 at f8 (your aperture) results in a picture that is too bright, then reduce power level of the flash.> To get the unit to work as a slave, you may need to set your in-camera flash to "force flash" and highest exposure compensation if you have that option. Alternatively, the use of a sync cord is easier.FLASH VS FOCAL LENGTH> This (and most other) flash units will cover the angle of standard wide-angle lens (28mm lens in 35mm format; 14mm in 4/3rds format; etc.), especially if you use the built-in optional diffuser. So with the same ISO and aperture, you can illuminate more people with a wide angle lens (or a zoom zoomed to wide angle). However the result will look like a flat flash picture. For a very large group or a small room, you may have no choice than to use a wide angle lens, but if you can step back, with a narrower-angle lens (without sacrificing too much in aperture or ISO), you'll get a better photo:> A "normal" lens (50mm in 35mm format; 25mm in 4/3rds format; etc) etc. corresponds closest to the view of the human eye, and therefore the brain translates 3D information from such a photo. If illuminated by flash, a photo taken with a "normal" lens will have greater "depth-of-illumination" (e.g. the ears will be nearly as brightly lit as the nose) than the same photo taken with a wide angle lens, so the photo will have greater depth and look less like a flash picture. Indeed, most pros have a (non-zoom) normal lens to take pictures of groups or children, etc.> A moderate telephoto (75-135mm in 35mm format; 40-70mm in 4/3rds format; etc) is best for portraits, babies, etc., and pretty much essential for flash-illuminated portraits to be evenly illuminated. That is, the depth-of-illumination will be even greater than with a normal lens. Noses will appear smaller, and in general the photos will be more flattering.> These comments also apply to zoom lenses: In general, stand back and use a narrow angle when you can, at the lowest ISO and smallest aperture (up to f11) that you can. Usually that will require a relatively powerful flash, which is what your buy a TT560, or similar flash unit, for.> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.

***NOTE*** THIS IS A MANUAL FLASH...YOU CANNOT USE YOUR CANON CAMERA FLASH MENU TO CONTROL THE FLASH.I must say, I didn't have high expectations for this flash. I checked some of the reviews and they were mixed, but reviews are a small part of the reason I make a purchase. The flash is pretty well built for the price range, and seems like it will last for a long time. The optical slave NEVER misses, and it's extremely sensitive even when it's turned in the opposite direction of the master flash. Even though I'm a professional Photographer...to me...Light is light no matter where it comes from. If your flash cost you $500...can I use this flash an create the same image?...You bet I can...How you use your equipment is more important than what equipment you have. Don't get me wrong though...more expensive pieces of equipment usually have more options and allow you certain freedoms, but ehhh...learn with the cheap stuff, and once you see your limits with this equipment...move on from there.******************************************Update!!!!: 9/11/2013First of all (today is 9/11) my condolences to those who have lost loved ones as I did in the attacks)It has been ALMOST 2 years since I've purchased 3 of these flashes, and they are still working PERFECTLY!!!I'm not a fan of spending money on things that will breakdown in the future, and these flashes have been banged around and thrown all over the place yet they still continue to produce excellent light for my photography needs.I usually use them for background, hair lights, and sometimes as a filler when it's needed and they have been great. The construction is solid, ease of use is key, optical slave is super sensitive and reliable. When you have good batteries in them...the recycle time is quick. I recommend VERY good rechargeable batteries (eneloop and powerex have never failed me).******************************************Update: 12/9/2013I ordered another one today to use as another slave...the other 3 that I have are still working perfectly fine and I have never had a problem with them at all. for such a cheap product...it's pretty shocking that they last this long and contunue to fire on command in slave mode without a miss!!!! I might be getting 2 more of these for a total of 6...some of my light setups are very elaborate, and I've learned the distance to power ratio in my studio of these flashes and never need to meter tham...they add light just where I need it when I have a snoot on each one. PERFECT!!!

Excelente